We stayed at La Casa BXL, a small non-descript B&B from the outside, but on the inside, decorated and operated with style and attention to detail. We were on the 3rd floor (again!) and lugged our oversized bags up the narrow small steps. Our room was great and spacious with a sort of Morrocan theme. (Later that night we learned that it was also right above one of the most bumpin' gay bars in town which provided some entertaining street parties). Outside our window was an old church that chimed its bells every hour, and for about twenty minutes leading up to 11am on Sunday and Monday. Such a pretty sound that will stay with me for a while.
La Casa BXL
Brussels oozed a casual and welcoming vibe, and it shared a great mix of French and Dutch influences. It's centre is small enough to get the lay of the land, and offers interesting areas and things to do, mixing cultural and architectural history with contemporary cool and artistic expression. Centuries old churches, cobblestone streets, fountains and grand plazas are juxtaposed against building facades celebrating comic/cartoon murals, and a massive graffiti embellished skate park. Brussels has a walking tour dedicated solely to discovering all of the comic murals in the city and some of the streets have two street signs, its original, and the second with the comic art related street name.
Part of the fortress wall ruins that are scattered throughout the city
For lunch we came across a classic friterie, called Fritland, that serves Belgian fast food. We ordered a Mitraillette, based on watching the person ahead of us and couldn't help ourselves. It was like a Big Mac had a three way with some Belgian frites and a fresh baguette. They put gyro-like beef on a baguette with lettuce and top it with fries and two different mayos, spicy and regular. You eat a few fries off the top, fold it all together and do your best to take a big bite. So delicious, but something you only need to eat once on a trip to BXL! (Although I'm pretty sure we'll crave it back home after a big night of drinking in lieu of Fritz or Pho!).
It was Saturday night so we stopped by the local grocery store to pick up some snacks and happy hour drinks to tide us over before heading out on the town. Mitchell was like a kid in a candy store, with 4 fridges full of Belgian beer and varieties that we can't get back home. A fave for the both of us ended up being the Hogaarten Rose. The beer stereotype was successfully investigated and verified on several occasions. Delicious!!
Flight of tastings with malted hops to nibble on
For dinner we went to an artsy fun looking neighbourhood in hopes to find some live music or DJs after dinner. The bars were all packed but you could get in easily with no lines or cover, you just cram yourself into them. Most bars spill out onto the streets where people can freely drink and smoke. Like in Paris and Amsterdam, everyone smokes. It rained heavily that night so we did our best to stay crammed inside.
Other highlights in Brussels included a long-standing traditional Sunday market. Near the Sablon area (a very unique antique/chic shopping area), the market offered everything from antique Belgian china, to coins, books, hardware, art, furniture, and clothing. The quality was hit or miss, but like a flea market or a garage sale, those who spend their time rifling through the goods are rewarded. I fell in love with these little figurines of sun bathing ladies. We stopped for a warm, fresh waffle from a truck on our way back. Mmm,...yep, they deserve the kudos for those!
The Grand Palais, while crazy touristy was worth the visit. Originally, over 500 years ago this was where all the specialist Guilds were housed (bakers, butchers, cabinet makers, artists,etc.). Now it's tourist central. We had no choice but to join them for moules et frites and beer on one of the main patios. Mussel reputation deserved :) We went back to the Grand Palais the next evening at night where they put on a light show on the Palais buildings set to classical music. So beautiful! It was a low, full moon too. Magical.
We lucked out that there happened to be their Brussels Summer Music Festival the weekend we were there so we spent an evening walking around the concert grounds listening to the different acts ranging from some popular French pop artists to AC/DC and Queen cover bands. The size and quality of the festival was impressive and had the weather been a little better we might have bought the wristbands that gave you full access to all Festival events. There is definitely as sense of greater support in Europe for their arts and cultural events, and with such grand settings to host them in! That night we managed to round out our investigation by trying some artisanal chocolate. Tasty little morsels! I don't think I tried enough to say whether the Belgians do chocolate better than anyone else, but they definitely don't suck at it!
We loved our short but sweet (and savoury) three days in Brussels. It's a great city with a lot going for it. We would both like to get back to Belgium some day to check out Antwerp and Gent further North. For the time being though, there is Bordeaux wine country to discover. On to Bordeaux!
Here's a link to more Brussels photos:
More Photos - Brussels
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